Guest Speaker & Africa Scarification

Last week we had the pleasure of receiving a lecture about body scarification from Keiron LeVine.  LeVine specialises in the area of Animalia, taking animal parts and turning them into fashionable headpieces. The lecture was based around cultures in Africa that scar the skin for different cultural reasons.

'Cockscomb' DR Congo, Boko Culture. viewed 14/10/14. 

Scarification on an Ethiopian woman. Unknown photographer. viewed 14/10/14

There are various differences between the meanings of scars on men and women. For men, the scars are created as  part of their acceptance into the tribe during their initiation. Women's scars have more depth of meaning. The scarification represents the milestones in their lives, the birth of children would be an example of such a milestone. The scars are created to attract men, have links to sexual desire and are also used to show one is married. The scarification methods are there as a way of communication between the tribes. Scarring women has also been used to avoid any danger of kidnapping and the slave trade. Furthermore, if a woman can bare the pain of scarification then they can handle childbirth which is seen as a desirable feature. Once the woman has had a child, scars will be added around the breast so that other tribesmen know. The scars will then be added to the legs and back following any further children. In African cultures there are multiple types of scarification which define each tribe. 

SHILLUK CULTURE. 

The shilluk tribe are a number of people who live in southern Sudan near the river Nile. The scars created in this tribe show strong cultural identity. Scarification here uses a fish hook to pull the skin up in a dotted line across the forehead. The scars are created to prevent kidnapping. The shilluk people have suffered from violence with multiple attacks by other organisations to prevent the tribe from rebelling. The scars could here also mean that they can endure. Shilluk is still around today. 

Example of scarification used in the Shilluk culture. Unknown photographer. Viewed 14/10/14. 

As you can see from the image the skin is scarred just above the eyes where the eyebrows would be. The skin is pulled up with fish hooks again and again until the desired scar is created. 

DR CONGO - BOKO

Boko is a district in the Republic of Congo in Africa. The scarification methods here are similar to that of the Shilluk culture, using a fish hook across the head to pull the skin up in order to create the scar. The scars created are similar to the head of a cockerel, with the skin falling down in layers. 

'Cockscomb' DR Congo, Boko Culture. viewed 14/10/14. 

From the image you can see that the scarring takes place from the hairline right down to the bridge of the nose. As scarring in some cultures shows hierarchy, perhaps the number of layers one has shows the importance of that person in society.The practise no longer exists as the only images found are in black and white. 

LUBA

The luba people are one of the largest ethnic groups in the Republic of Congo. Luba scarification is made up of more complex designs, yet are more subtle. The scars don't protrude out of the head a long way like the Boko people. The scars are again made the same way by pulling the skin to create different designs.                                                                              

As you can see from the image the scarring is a lot more intricate in detailing compared to those seen previously. Women in the Luba can chose their own design so each one is completely unique. This is done to attract the attention of young suitors and show a young woman's passage into womanhood. It is believed that Congolese women can hold the gods and spirits within their bodies, which is one of the reason that scarification is still a continued practise today. The culture thinks of the women's body as a symbol of beauty, something to be worshipped, which is why it is modified to create a unique, beautiful canvas for such a spirit. It is also believed that each scar is a way of encoding memory and as the scar gets older, the more memory it can hold. The scar can also signify an experience, like marriage or childbirth. 

YORUBA

Yoruba is a population based in Nigeria and in Western Africa. The practise of scarification is still celebrated in this culture. The markings are here called Kolo, showing a resistance to pain. The scars made here are owed to Ogun, the spirit of iron. Iron here meaning strength. These markings are shown with pride and are a symbol of bravery.

Woman in Yoruba culture showing facial scarification. Unknown photographer. Viewed 15/10/14 

The scars are animal like, and can once again be chosen. These scars would be made by cutting away at the skin. They almost have a tiger effect about them with the lines replicating the stripes. This may be done to show they are powerful like tigers. 

OMO VALLEY, PIERCINGS, NECK RINGS & MAKONDE

The Omo Valley and Makonde are very similar in their practices of skin modification. The tribes here use stretchers and plugs to modify the skin, much like we do in western cultures but on a larger scale and with other body parts such as lips. The piercings are very much still used today. They are seen as a way of beautification and deter people from kidnapping women from the tribe. The neck rings in the Ndebele tribe are a form of marriage ring. The ring is applied once the marital home has been brought. The amount of rings around the neck signifies wealth and won't be removed until death. Each year a new one is added. The neck rings are also found in Asia. The rings are an illusion and don't stretch the neck. This concept has been used by Dior in their advert for J'adore perfume.  

Example of the plugs used to stretch the skin. Viewed 15/10/14

Example of neck rings used in Africa. Viewed 15/10/14

Example of neck rings used in Asia. Here the neck rings are put on at a young age as a girls right of passage Viewed 15/10/14 

MANGBETU

Mangbetu are a tribe in the Republic of Congo. The body modification used in this region is called skull binding. The heads are elongated at birth through to infancy using a coil wrapped tightly around the head. In later life the hair is used to maximise this look often making the skull look further elongated then it actually is. This practice became extinct when western cultures started to arrive in their district. The practice was then banned. However, this style has influenced the western world, as elongated hair has been seen on the catwalk for Dior in 2011. 

The tight coil technique shown here on an infant. Viewed 15/10/14

Dior 2009.  Example of the hairstyles worn by mangbetu women. Viewed 15/10/14